Here is a completely gratuitous shot of my blood axes just for the hell of it and because I set them up next to the goffs for comparison.
After about three weeks I have finished two mobs. One of Blood Axe Slugga Boyz and one of Goff Slugga Boyz. The practise from painting these guys has been a big help in redeveloping my painting muscles. I am pleased with the way the mobs turned out. They are not painted to the highest possible standard I could achieve by painting them one at a time but they are certainly a good deal better than basecoated. I got to do some conversions as sampled by these rokkit boyz. 
When I made these there actually were no models to represent ork heavy weapon choices but there were a bunch of easy conversions to make big shootaz and rokkits. This is of course one of the best properties of doing an ork army, you don't have to be rembrandt to make a good conversion and have it look orky. I am capable of doing smooth conversions. The wild welding and melding of anything made of metal into trukks and battlewagons, big shootaz and rokkits is pretty kick ass.
When I made these there actually were no models to represent ork heavy weapon choices but there were a bunch of easy conversions to make big shootaz and rokkits. This is of course one of the best properties of doing an ork army, you don't have to be rembrandt to make a good conversion and have it look orky. I am capable of doing smooth conversions. The wild welding and melding of anything made of metal into trukks and battlewagons, big shootaz and rokkits is pretty kick ass.
This shot is of the whole mob.
I painted the Nob as a solo because he needed some work on his shoulder before he could be painted. The styling on the Gorkamorka Nobs is a bit more barbaric than the plastic boyz. Throughout the mob I used black and white Checkmarked patterns to act as one of the unifying themes. This combined with the black cloth and commonality of metal style, details and general orkishness should allow for a commonality of theme throughout my army without stopping me from doing different clans for different mobs.
The problem with doing a horde army can be that keeping track of individuals from different units gets a bit muddled. With black cloth in every unit I hope to see black and green and maybe red for eyes and decorations serve as visual connective tissue for the mass of orks.
Here we see the Goffs moving toward the cardstock and plastick Ork fortress based on masonite and mounted with Gorilla wood glue.I hope to get the fort tricked out with some detail painting and of course base the base with flock and maybe some static grass. Static grass is great on bases for individual models but it does not lend itself nearly so well to terrain. At least not in my experience.
I took up a few close up shots of boyz with varying degrees of success. I really need to make myself use the tripod. I know that these pics are a bit out of focus but one thing is for sure taking a LOT of pics is a good way to get a few decent ones. Digital cameras are great in that regard. I used to spend a small fortune taking pictures on film and then getting them developed. Now I can take dozens of shots and just go through them for the best.
I am not a huge fan of how the highlights on the black came out with these I experimented on the Nob with some Hawk Turquoise and it has a lot of potential. I am thinking that doing fine line highlights with hawk turquoise may give me the best results so I am going to try it out on the next mob.
Photos are useful because they tell the truth and can really highlight errors and omissions. For instance this boy needs to clean the gun out of his gun barrel and grow some eyes.
This nob came out fairly well and did not take long to do all things considered. I am torn when it comes to painting orks as far as the tone of the skin. In the Lore the bigger and tougher the ork the darker the green of the skin. The problem is that I hate the ultralight ork skin that is sometimes done for orks. I plan to do my gretchin quite light skinned. Should make for an interesting contrast. Of course since character models are universally bigger and older orks they should have the darkest skin. Since they are character models I end up putting more time into getting subtler effects of shading which can really lead to brighter highlights.
I guess I can always highlight the boyz skin later down the road since it is just a matter of adding lighter layers for the most part. I did experiment with a superhighlight underneath with a green wash or Ork Flesh wash over it. The ultrahighlight worked out fairly well but the drybrush followed by a wash was crap.
Actually this guy with the iron gob is the drybrush-washed one.
This one is from the original group of ten or so that I painted a few years ago. I like the smoother transitions of shade to light on his skin.
The problem with doing a horde army can be that keeping track of individuals from different units gets a bit muddled. With black cloth in every unit I hope to see black and green and maybe red for eyes and decorations serve as visual connective tissue for the mass of orks.
Here we see the Goffs moving toward the cardstock and plastick Ork fortress based on masonite and mounted with Gorilla wood glue.I hope to get the fort tricked out with some detail painting and of course base the base with flock and maybe some static grass. Static grass is great on bases for individual models but it does not lend itself nearly so well to terrain. At least not in my experience.
I took up a few close up shots of boyz with varying degrees of success. I really need to make myself use the tripod. I know that these pics are a bit out of focus but one thing is for sure taking a LOT of pics is a good way to get a few decent ones. Digital cameras are great in that regard. I used to spend a small fortune taking pictures on film and then getting them developed. Now I can take dozens of shots and just go through them for the best.
I am not a huge fan of how the highlights on the black came out with these I experimented on the Nob with some Hawk Turquoise and it has a lot of potential. I am thinking that doing fine line highlights with hawk turquoise may give me the best results so I am going to try it out on the next mob.
Photos are useful because they tell the truth and can really highlight errors and omissions. For instance this boy needs to clean the gun out of his gun barrel and grow some eyes.
This nob came out fairly well and did not take long to do all things considered. I am torn when it comes to painting orks as far as the tone of the skin. In the Lore the bigger and tougher the ork the darker the green of the skin. The problem is that I hate the ultralight ork skin that is sometimes done for orks. I plan to do my gretchin quite light skinned. Should make for an interesting contrast. Of course since character models are universally bigger and older orks they should have the darkest skin. Since they are character models I end up putting more time into getting subtler effects of shading which can really lead to brighter highlights.
I guess I can always highlight the boyz skin later down the road since it is just a matter of adding lighter layers for the most part. I did experiment with a superhighlight underneath with a green wash or Ork Flesh wash over it. The ultrahighlight worked out fairly well but the drybrush followed by a wash was crap.
Actually this guy with the iron gob is the drybrush-washed one.
This one is from the original group of ten or so that I painted a few years ago. I like the smoother transitions of shade to light on his skin.Ok so the next step is to pain up my Warboss. I spent the last painting session fixing him and his arm whic is a custom conversion. I have done a bit of base coat and highlighted his skin. He should only take a few more sessions at most.
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